If you live somewhere hot, or if your house gets extremely warm in the summers, you may not need heating. Heating depends on your daily housing situation. UVB lights also “run out” of UVB, so even though the light bulb itself may still be working, the UVB rays become inactive after about 6 months and should be changed every half a year. This light should also be on a simple outlet timer, so that your frogs get 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of night. Without this lighting, they can become sluggish over time and even develop diseases. Tree frogs need UVB lighting, which helps them to absorb the vitamins from their food. Lighting to these frogs is absolutely crucial, because any old lightbulb will not do. It became a big hit as soon as I added it. My personal favorite investment of my tank is my mushroom ledge, which sticks through magnets on the outside. Decor is always fine, as long as there are no sharp edges that could puncture your frog’s squishy skin, and no flaky paint. Other features inside the tank are up to you. Always best to be safe rather than sorry. Also, water should almost always be conditioned for chlorine content with a water conditioner (fish tank aisle), unless you live way out in the country and run off of a well or spring water. If it’s not, we risk build up of bacteria from the dirty water, which can make froggie sick. Not too deep, we don’t want froggie to drown! But deep enough that it can step in and out easily while still being able to submerge 90% of its body - frogs like to soak, which helps with moisture control, shedding, and digestion. You’ll also need at least one water dish. That way you can customize the twists and turns that your frog can follow, and weave it in and out of itself and between your plants. I would also highly, highly suggest a fake vine, they sell them regularly in stores and they’re bendable like craft pipe cleaners. Artificial plants are also perfectly fine, I would recommend the kind that suction cup to the sides or fasten to the top of the tank so that they have coverage from top to bottom. Real plants are fine, just know that these frogs are extremely clumsy and may end up flattening anything you try to grow (yes I had a plant and yes, Icabod killed it), so you’ll want something sturdy like pothos. You will also want plenty of things for them to climb on. You will want to change this soil at least every two months, and always, always spot clean frog poops to keep your soil cleaner for longer! They are big, and you will know them when you see them. Coconut soil is also digestible, so that if you feed your frog(s) in tank, they can accidentally swallow the substrate and pass it easily. They often blunder around, falling off of vines while they’re climbing, or misjudge a jump and go bowling off into the dirt, and as such they need something soft to break their falls so that they aren’t injured in the process. Dumpy frogs are extremely active, and not gracefully so. Even so, I am planning to get them an even larger tank someday, as dumpy frogs are very curious.įor substrate, the most popular is coconut soil. In this size tank, I have four tree frogs and I would recommend no more than that for this size. White’s tree frogs are quite large for tree frogs, and immensely active, so the more space they have to utilize, the better. Numbers also matter, because we do not want to overcrowd the tank. Very personally, I would not recommend anything much smaller than an 18x18x24 (exo-terra double doors), even for just one frog. This means that an old fish tank will not do, as most are horizontal, and we want something at least two feet in height. Tree frogs are climbers naturally, so to keep them active with strong leg muscles we need something with height. Any tree frog, whether it be White’s or another species, should always be given a vertical tank rather than a horizontal. As childish as these frogs are, I would strongly dissuade the idea of giving these to a child under 16 to care for, unless the parent was the primary caretaker. They aren’t necessarily difficult, but it can be easy to neglect the small things that make a difference. Although dumpy frogs are considered to be beginner level when placed on a scale of strictly tree frogs, they are more likely to be placed at an intermediate level on a scale of pet frogs and herptiles as a whole. In other words, how to ensure you’re providing your tree frogs with the care that they need.
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